Your Result: Transitioning
Your hair is in transition
You're growing out a relaxer or perm, so your hair has two textures: natural new growth at the roots and chemically treated hair on the ends. The spot where they meet, called the line of demarcation, is the weakest part of the strand. Most breakage during a transition happens right there. Your plan strengthens the treated ends, keeps the new growth moisturized, and handles the meeting point gently.
Every wash day (once a week)
- Pre-poo, 15 to 30 minutes. On dry hair, apply conditioner or a light oil, focusing on the relaxed ends and the line of demarcation. This cuts down on tangles and breakage during the wash.
- Shampoo. Use a gentle, moisturizing shampoo on your scalp only and let the suds rinse through your lengths. Use a clarifying shampoo once a month, in week 1.
- This week's treatment. See the 4-week rotation below.
- Detangle in your conditioner. Work in 4 to 6 sections with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, from the ends up. Hold your hair above the line of demarcation so you never pull on it.
- Leave-in and seal. Apply a water-based leave-in all over, then a light oil to seal. Concentrate on the new growth, since it dries out fastest.
- Style. Choose a low-manipulation style that blends both textures, like twists, a braid-out, a rod set or a roller set. Air-dry or sit under a hooded dryer, and skip flat irons and blow-dryers.
Your 4-week treatment rotation
- Week 1: Strengthen. Clarifying shampoo, then a protein treatment on your relaxed lengths and the line of demarcation, timed as the label directs. Follow with a quick moisturizing conditioner so your hair does not feel stiff.
- Week 2: Hydrate. Moisturizing shampoo, then a moisture deep conditioner for 20 to 30 minutes with gentle heat from a hooded dryer, steamer or thermal cap.
- Week 3: Hydrate. Moisturizing shampoo and a moisture deep conditioner with heat. If your hair is snapping at the line of demarcation or feels mushy when wet, use a light protein conditioner this week instead.
- Week 4: Check in and trim. Moisturizing shampoo and a moisture deep conditioner with heat. Is breakage slowing down? Book a trim every 6 to 8 weeks to gradually remove your relaxed ends.
Then start again at week 1, so protein comes about once a month.
Adjust protein by how your hair feels
- Feels stiff, rough or straw-like? Skip your next protein week and focus on moisture.
- Still mushy, stretchy or snapping? Add a light protein conditioner in week 3.
Between wash days
- Mist your new growth with water or a water-based leave-in every 1 to 2 days, then seal.
- Sleep in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase.
- Keep heat to a minimum. If you do use heat, always use a heat protectant.
- Refresh your style instead of redoing it. Every time your hair is handled, the line of demarcation is at risk.
Common problems and fixes
- My hair keeps snapping where the textures meet. That is the line of demarcation. Stay on your protein rotation, cut back on heat and tight styles, and consider trimming more of the relaxed ends.
- My roots and ends look like two different heads of hair. Blending styles like rod sets, twist-outs, braid-outs and roller sets make the two textures look more uniform while you grow.
- Should I big chop or keep transitioning? Both are healthy choices. Transitioning lets you keep your length longer, while a big chop removes all the treated hair at once. Talk it through at your appointment.
In the salon
A treatment and trim appointment every 6 to 8 weeks keeps your plan on track and gradually removes your relaxed ends. Rod sets and braids are great styles for blending your textures in between. Book a treatment and trim
Support your routine
Cleanse with Restore shampoo, and keep your new growth soft with Moisturize and restore conditioner and Moisture milk.
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This is general hair care guidance, not medical advice.